But as he begins his first growing season, he and his wife Monica (Yeri Han) spend their days at a local hatchery, working as chicken sexers. And it mirrors Chung’s own experiences: Like the Yi family, Chung grew up in Arkansas, where his father did chicken sexing for 19 years while also establishing a farm that grew Korean medicinal herbs. A chicken sexer, however, can tell the difference between “the nearly identical genitalia of male and female hatchlings and, in an instant, makes the call,” McWilliams explains. And with fewer young people interested in the job, Japan had just a “few hundred” chicken sexers in 2010, as opposed to over 1,000 chicken sexers in previous decades. In 2015, CNBC reported that in the U.K., chicken sexing had become a “$60K a year job nobody wants,” with only 100 to 150 chicken sexers in the entire country.