With the aim of creating that same fiery soul, chef Mariano Muñoz has been imported from Argentina to lead the European outpost tucked into one-block calle de Orfila, a thoroughfare frequented by art gallerists and diplomats. Upstairs, diners can get a clear view of Muñoz and his team preparing kibbeh, empanadas and ricotta börek (filo pastry) in the glass-fronted kitchen. The beef is sourced directly from the pampas, while the showpiece is bone-in pastrami, a rack of ribs marinated in a decadent 13-spice blend for 10 days, smoked for eight hours then slow-roasted for 24 hours. For pudding, embrace both cultures and order the three-nut baklava plus dulce de leche. Celebrating Argentina’s idiosyncratic parrilla culture as well as classic Israeli mezze, this is a delicious collision of two worlds and an upgrade to Middle Eastern fast food in the city – one that has blown open the madrileño tapas mindset.