Grazing cows, freezing morning swims and meadow walks, or seafood pasta in shady squares, glittering palazzi and gelato twice a day? I could not believe he was still hesitating. ‘But we would have to drive for hours,’ he countered, ‘the heat would be unbearable, the canals would stink at this time of year…’ I wasn’t listening. I also knew I was in for a serious, academic tour – as a historian, my father was on a mission to educate me about the Doges and the Byzantine and Austrian empires, while my mind was on where to find earrings with tiny carnival masks. AdvertisementRead our travel guide to Venice.