Julie'sBack in its Eighties heyday, Julie’s was one of the grande dames of the west-London restaurant scene. In 2015, Julie’s closed for refurbishment, but endless planning issues kept the doors shut for four years. Recently reopened – just in time for its 50th birthday – Julie’s is back, with ex-The Goring head chef Shay Cooper in the kitchen. His modern British menu is unfussy, concise but expertly executed: kale risotto with creamy white crab; buttermilk fried quail; British salt-marsh lamb and flaky Cornish cod with cuttlefish noodles. The menu changes at each service, but the classic, unfussy cooking remains a constant.