Anthony Sattin heard whispers of a wonderworld of perfect islands, home to the curiously elusive sea gypsies and with not one but thousands of pristine beaches, many as yet unnamed. Islands were marked, but there were few place names. 'Eight hundred islands - maybe more. And the Moken, sea gypsies: the only people who live there.' But as a result of Aung San Suu Kyi's pronouncement that it is now politically acceptable to visit the country, and the subsequent easing of restrictions by the military regime, Burma has begun to open up, and so have the islands.