I began my exploration of western Sicily here because Mazara is its ancient gateway and one of the towns I love best. As the local proverb has it, Ci dissi u surci a nuci; dammi tempu ca ti perciu – ‘The mouse said to the nut, “Give me time and I will break you.”’AdvertisementTime in western Sicily is peculiar. The feudalism of barons, landlords and the mafia gripped western Sicily well into living memory. Getting HereItalian expert Bellini Travel can organise bespoke trips to western Sicily, including stays at La Foresteria on the Planeta Estate. Read next The best road trips in Italy: 4 stunning routes Destinations The best road trips in Italy: 4 stunning routesLike this?